Inspiration| Journal | Gallery
Patterns:
Bodice pattern from Patterns of Fashion II 1860-1940 by Janet Arnold. Right now I do not have the book with me and I can't remember which bodice pattern I used exactly. When I have the book again, I'll put down which one I used. I just remembered which one it was, but I don't know the name of this dress. But, I do have a picture of it. I changed it quite a bit, so it doesn't look much like the original anymore. Click here for a picture.
Bustle skirt also from Patterns of Fashion. I am going to use the one from the c. 1874-7 day dress from Gloucester Museum. Although, I won't be doing the shirring in the front or adding the trim at the bottom shown in the picture.
I'm still trying to decide which type of sleeves I want. I may end up drafting my own pattern for those, but I'm not sure. I'm thinking of a three quarter sleeve edged with 3-4 inch fine lace.
For the bustle to go under the skirt and the ruffled petticoat, I used patterns from Period Costumes for Stage & Screen 1800-1909 by Jean Hunnisett. Again, I can't say the exact patterns I used, because it's been a while since I made them and I don't have the book with me.
I'm just using my 1860s corset for this dress, but I may end up making a chemise and possibly corset cover. The chemise I have now is off the shoulder and works better for the 1860s than the 1870s. But, I'm unsure of the pattern I'll use for that.
Materials:
8 1/2 yards grey silk taffeta. I am thinking of dying some of this a light blue for trim, but I probably won't do that until the dress is made and I know if I have enough left to use for trim.
Lots and lots of white cotton muslin for the petticoat, bustle and lining for bodice.
1/4" wide steel stays.
I'll probably use covered buttons for the closure and cover them with the light blue dyed fabric, if I do end up dying it.
Piping about 1/16" thick.
Hooks and eyes for bustle construction and various places like for the waist closure etc.
Large piece of paper or roll of paper for scaling up patterns. Otherwise, I will probably scan the pattern diagram into my computer, enlarge it on a photo program and print it on several pieces of paper. Then I'll tape them together and make any adjustments on the pattern. I may then trace it onto the larger sheets of paper.
Before I make this dress with the nice silk taffeta, I am going to make it in a cheap calico fabric. This way I can make any adjustments that may need to be made and I don't take the chance of ruining my lovely silk taffeta. I will either keep the calico dress if I like it, or I might sell it on eBay. I'll see what I want to do when it's finished. Pictures below:
Above painting: Portrait of Two Sisters, 1840 by Louis-Edouard
Courtesy of CGFA.